[HNW] 18th century quilted petticoat

Cindi Luckett crewelhearted at yahoo.com
Sun Jan 18 06:04:00 PST 2004

Carolyn, it sounds like a wonderful skirt you are preparing to make.  The number of stitches per inch is general 12. The stitches start from the underside. The quilting patterns were either drawn on or a pattern with holes was used and ink pouches "pounced" on the fabric so the ink powder would go through the pattern hole and onto the fabric.  The quiliting was indeed finished prior to the assembling of the petticoat.  The length and width of the petticoat depend on the dimensions of the intended wearer.  The ankles are NOT to show.  If this was a common person they would most likely not have a quilted petticoat and since the person worked hard in the kitchen and other tasks, they petticoat would not want to drag in the water nor brush against a fire.  
The fabric around the bottom should be 104" around the bottom or so. This should help you figure out how many panels you need depending on the width of your fabric.  Cut the fabric 4" longer than you want the finished petticoat to be; this allows the quilting to take up some of the length.  Don't forget to leave slits in the sides for easy access to the lady's pocket.
Let me know if I can help you more!!
Cindi Luckett
18th Century Embroideress/Tudor
Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta at frys.com> wrote:
I am about to start a mid-18th century quilted petticoat. This is for a 
group of privateers and associated women, so I'm using linen instead of 
silk for the outside layer, and I'm keeping the quilting pattern 
simple. The middle layer will be Warm and Natural, a thin cotton batting 
recommended to me as being good for showing off fancy quilting 
stitching. The inner layer will be a funky cotton gingham check of 
approximately quarter inch squares, except where they're bigger, smaller, 
or not square (I suspect it was woven in India).

How many stitches to the inch is the quilting on the originals, or do 
individual examples vary?

Did 18th century petticoat quilters work from the outside or from the 
lining side, or do individual examples vary? Is it even known which side 
they worked from?

How did they get the quilting patterns onto the fabric? (If I work from 
the back side, this will be easy using modern methods.)

Do I correctly assume that the quilting is done before the petticoat is 
assembled, as with modern bed quilts and other quilted items? It would 
sure be easier that way.

How long should I make this garment? I'm assuming about ankle length, and 
about three yards around.

Cindi Luckett
Charleston, SC
crewelhearted at yahoo.com

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